Back in Udupi

Well, we finished up our trip to Kolkata with a stomach virus.  Jasmine and I both got it.  She had it worse, but I had it longer.  We were able to make the trip back to Bangalore thanks to medications and first class train tickets.  We ended up spending an extra couple of days in Bangalore, though.  The overnight buses don't have bathrooms and don't have scheduled stops.  So, we got to spend an extra couple of days with our neice, her husband and their 18 months old son.  We had a really nice time with them.  On the day that I thought I was over the bug, we went to a "safari" at a wildlife rescue center.  It was pretty cool.  This place rescues and rehabilitates wild animals and then releases them back into the wild.  We saw lions, tigers (including white tigers), bears, dear, buffalo, and antelope.  They also had a butterfly garden which was really cool.  I generally don't go to zoos because the animals there are often captured in the wild under bad circumstances and sold to zoos for recreational purposes.  I don't want to pay people to do that.  So, whenever we get a chance to visit a wildlife rehabilitation facility we jump on it.  We drove through the park in a shuttle van which was wrapped in protective wires.  When we got to the tiger section they had a double lock gate for security.  We drove in through the first gate which was then shut and locked behind us before the second gate was opened for us to go through.  They can't have tigers wandering into the other areas, so this is part of the safety precautions.  Overall, it was a very nice time.

After having to cancel and change our bus tickets twice, we ended up on an overnight bus again.  This time it wasn't a sleeper though.  It just had nice, comfortable seats that reclined way back.  It was actually much more comfortable than being on the top bunk of the sleeper bus.  I also took some motion sickness meds before we left which pretty much knocked me out so the trip was much quicker than I expected.  I think it was 9 hours. 

So, Jasmine and I are back in Udupi.  Vikas, Vishal and Vilas had to go to Mumbai for a funeral.  One of their uncles passed away while we were in Kolkata so they left yesterday to attend his 13th day ritual.  They had an overnight bus journey, so Vikas has spent a lot of time on buses in the past few days.  They'll leave tomorrow to come back to Udupi.  After that we'll be here until we leave for Rajasthan around the 18th of January.  The weather has cooled off considerably so it's pretty pleasant here now.  I'm not sure what all we'll be doing before we leave again.  I'm working on costuming right now, constructing belts.  That will keep me pretty busy.

Oh, Jamsine has started cooking tomato omelets for herself each day.  For those of you who don't know this yet, the south Indian omelets are made from chickpea flour batter instead of eggs.  Now that Jasmine has learned how to make them she is in the kitchen a couple of times a day asking if she can cook them for herself.  This is a great sign to me.  Soon, she'll be doing a lot of the cooking and Vikas and I will get a break. ;-)

Trains and Temples

We had a nice stay in Bangalore at our cousin's house.  She has 2 daughters so Jasmine was happy.  She warmed up to them very quickly and they got along great.  We were only there for one day but it was a good one.  Our cousin, Chetan, was a bit surprised to learn that Jasmine and I can't eat chilies and was worried to death that the food didn't have any flavor at all every time she cooked for us.  The food was actually delicious every meal.  She was also shocked to see us make tea using coconut milk instead of cow milk.  That's also really good when you have the right proportions, but she didn't believe us and wouldn't try it.  I'm not trying to single her out, though.  This has been the reaction of everyone across the board here.  Milk is such a huge part of the hindu lifestyle that they really have a hard time understanding how you can not have it.  It's an interesting perspective they have.  They feel that they must have milk for 2 reasons.  One is that they believe it's very nourishing,  and the other is that they believe the cow represents the mother, or God, and to refuse the milk is to turn your back on God.  That's my understanding of the situation anyway and I apologize if I got any part of that wrong.)  The sad thing is that the horrendous practice of torturing cows to get large quantities of milk and then slaughtering them once they can longer produce milk have made their way into India now, too.  Most people here aren't aware of that, though.  It used to be that dairy cows were very well treated here, according to everyone we've discussed this with, but along with the "bottom line" mentality of the west that crept into India has come these shameful practices.  Anyway, I digress.  You really stopped here to read about Trains and Temples so let me move on.

The train ride was nice.  The train itself wasn't spectacular, but it was clean and comfortable.  There are 4 beds in each compartment and we ended up not sharing the room with a 4th passenger so we had the entire compartment to ourselves.  It was nice to be able to completely relax and to get up and walk around as much as we wanted to.  They served meals and snacks throughout the journey so we never got hungry.  We saw some beautiful scenery along the way.  There were lots of beautiful green fields, several lakes and rivers and lots of little villages.  At a couple of places along the way we looked out the window and saw these huge piles of boulders all stacked up into mountains.  They seemed to be naturally occurring, but really looked as if some giant had made big stacks of what would have been pebbles to him.  There were a couple of places where you'd see a huge boulder sitting on top of a larger one, balanced on a small corner or something.  I think I got some pictures of that so I'll try to get them uploaded soon.  When we got to the different stations we inevitably saw scenes of things like cows grazing by the railroad tracks and at one station I looked up and saw a huge pig come walking across the tracks.  That was a bit surprising.  I'm used to seeing cows everywhere here but I haven't seen a lot of pigs walking around.  A little further up the way there was a group of pigs, including a nursing mom with a few piglets having a snack.  Oh, and at one station we finally saw some monkeys. 

When we got to the station in Kolkata our niece, Pooja, was there at the train to meet us and we had no trouble getting to the car (which was parked right at the train) and getting to her home.  It's been very nice staying here.  They have a beautiful house with a lovely garden in the back and two Dalmatians.  They also have a parrot, a small pond full of goldfish and a small aviary.  Jasmine has been having the time of her life here.  Every morning the whole family (there are 3 generations living in this house) goes out to the garden to have tea and spend time with the plants and animals.  Jasmine has been going with Pooja's father-in-law to walk the dogs every morning before I even wake up.  We've really been enjoying spending time with Pooja and her new family.  They are really very nice people and we all get along so easily.

The house is only a couple of blocks from the Birla Temple here in Kolkata.  This is a famous temple built by a successful businessman who has erected several of this Krishna temples in different places.  We walked up to the temple yesterday for a visit. It's very beautiful.  The architecture is really interesting and has lots of beautiful carvings all over it.  The energy there was peaceful and relaxed.  We all enjoyed it very much.  However, as many of you probably already know, Kolkata is the land of Kali.  So, we obviously had to visit a Kali temple while we were here.  This morning Pooja's mother-in-law took us to the major Kali temple here in town.  It turns out that Saturday is the day of Kali so it was very, very busy.  Just getting into the temple ground was a bit of a maze.  We made our way up to the actually temple with some effort and squeezed our way in toward the door where we got wedged into a traffic jam of people moving in both directions.  It was really chaos.  Poor Jasmine got so overwhelmed at one point that she started crying.   There was no way we were going to be able to get into the actual room to do puja so we prayed from outside looking toward the Kali (which Jasmine finally got to see by standing up on the ledge but Vikas and I never did) and then made our way out.  It was madness.  So, Auntie took the offerings we got to give at that temple and took us to a smaller temple they call the Lake temple and we did puja there instead.  It was completely different. Very easy going and peaceful but powerful feeling.  When I go to a Kali temple I always get a surge of emotion and energy when I stand before Kali.  That obviously didn't happen at the big temple today, but definitely did at the second one.  It was good to experience the difference between the two places and it all ended up being quite a nice experience.

So, now we're getting ready to go to a private club with everyone for dinner tonight.  That means I have to wrap this up for now but I'll be posting pics to go along with the blog either later tonight or tomorrow and will have plenty more to blog about. 

Of Sleeper Buses and Screech Owls

Well, we made it to Bangalore on the overnight sleeper bus.  It was quite an adventure.  The bus itself was nice.  The beds were actually pretty comfortable and there were reading lights and curtains for privacy.  The layout has 2 beds side by side in one compartment with no divider, and one bed across the isle.  When Vikas booked the tickets he was under the impression that we had 2 beds on one side and the third one was across the isle.  It turned out that the tickets were actually for the two on one side and one of the beds in the next two bed compartment.  So, we ended up all three in one two bed compartment.  Vikas and I weren't comfortable with him having to sleep next to a total stranger, and I certainly wasn't going to be able to do it.  That ended up being OK, too.  It wasn't too bad and in a way was nice and cozy to all be there together.  The not so good part was the bouncing and jerking around due to the poor roads.  The worst was when we were crossing the ghats, a set of mountains that lies between Mangalore and Bangalore.  It seems that there are just narrow roads winding around the circumference of the mountains .  There has been too much rain this year and the roads were all in very bad condition, so we were bouncing around the whole time, and I mean REALLY bouncing around.  I didn't get any sleep, and I don't think Vikas did either, but Jasmine slept like a baby.  We're planning to try to change our return tickets to a daytime bus with comfortable seats instead of beds.

On to the screech owls.... I've been meaning to blog about this for a while.  There are a couple of screech owls that hang out outside our bedroom window.  I think they actually perch on the building next to ours and hunt from there.  The make the scariest noise.  When they first come and you're not expecting it, it can almost make you jump out of your skin.  So several nights Vikas and I have laid there and laughed at how loud it is and how startling it can be.  A few nights ago we're sure we heard their successful hunt.  It was even louder than usual. 

Coming up.......Pig walking on train tracks,  cows out the windows and stone mountains.

The Perpetual Pursuit of the Perfect Pleat

Sarees.  Who doesn't love them?  6 meters of gorgeous fabric, embellished with beautiful designs, embroidery, beads, sequins.  They come in cotton, silk, crepe, and a variety of different synthetic materials in all colors.  It's impossible not to look feminine in one, and almost impossible not to look graceful in one.  There are 108 ways to drape them.  They just seem to shout, "Look at me!  I'm so cool!"  So, it's no wonder that as soon as I met my husband I bought a saree (or sari) and tried to teach myself how to wear it.  I think back now to that first time I wore one, to the Indian restaurant no less.  What a mess I was.  I'm embarrassed for myself and all the Indians who had to see that spectacle every time I think about it.

When Vikas and I came to India to get married, my very gracious mother-in-law (whom I affectionately call "Sasu") was nice enough to try to teach me how to drape the saree properly.  When she wrapped it around me, it was beautiful.  So neat and tidy.  I paid careful attention so that I could recreate that look.  She had this way of making the saree show off my curves that was pretty amazing.  So, the next time we were going to her house, I picked out a beautiful blue cotton saree based on blue being my father-in-laws favorite color of the ones that I had, per Vikas.  I was so proud of myself.   I managed to get it draped all by myself and Vikas said I looked beautiful.  So, off to the in-laws we go.  When we got there we walked in and, using the opportunity to try to speak to them in hindi, I looked at them and said "Passand Aiah?"  That means "Do you like it?" in hindi.  I'll never forget for as long as I live the moment that followed.   My sweet, accepting, VERY gracious Sasu looked at me and said, " I thought I showed you, no?" 

So, for the last 11 years, I've been working on getting the saree right.  It's all about the pleats.  There are pleats that hang off of the shoulder to display the paloo which is the ornate end of the saree, and there are pleats in the front of the skirt.  Most of the fabric is taken up in the skirt pleats.  This is where my troubles always land.  In order for the saree to look proper, the pleats have to be evenly folded in the front and at the bottom hem.  It's seems that no matter how many times I drape the saree and work on getting the pleats right, that top pleat that's the most visible is usually not right.  And let's face it, it's impossible for me to be inconspicuous in India whether I'm wearing a saree or not.  But, when I wear a saree I get looked at three times as much.  People are surprised to see a white person in a saree and I think most of them are delighted to see foreigners taking such interest in their national dress.  I want to get it right for me and for them. 

It's been a long process for me but I think I look at least presentable in a saree now.  I usually get complements from the ladies saying I've done a good job putting it on and that I wear it nicely.  I'm pleased wit the progress I've made so far, but for now, I'm still in perpetual pursuit of the perfect pleat.

Sleeper busses and coconuts

We've booked our tickets for our trip to Kolkata (formerly Calcutta).  Calcutta was the English name for the city during their imperial rule of India.  After gaining independence in 1947, many cities in India chose to cast off the names imposed on them by the English and revert to native words with meanings relevant to the area.  Kolkota is most likely linked to the Goddess Kali, who is the main deity in that area, or a village in the area with a similar name.  Bombay also threw off the name imposed on them and changed it to Mumbai in honor of a local goddess.  Most of the natives still call it Bombay, though.  Same thing for Madras changing to Chennai etc.

Anyway, we are going to Kolkata on December 12th for a week long visit with our niece Pooja and her husband and his family.  We've never been to Kolkata and they haven't had any visitors other than her parents since she moved there, so this is an exciting trip for all of us.  In order to get there we'll take an express train from Bangalore which takes about 28 hours.  We're basically crossing the entire country on this trip.  I'm excited to see the scenery and Jasmine is excited about the whole train trip and especially sleeping on the train.  That, however, will be second part of the trip.  First, we have to get to Bangalore (Bengalauru).  Most people have heard of Bangalore by now because so much technology is coming out of there, and so many call centers have been moved there in the last several years.  (There is even a Ritz Carlton under construction in Bangalore. )  In order to get to Bangalore we have to take an overnight "sleeper bus."  I've never been on one and didn't even know they existed.  Apparently this one has only been in service here for less than a month.  There are 36 beds on this bus, each with privacy curtains and air conditioning as I understand it.  It should be an adventure.  Jasmine is definitely stoked about it.  We'll see how excited she is after riding in a bumpy bus all night, though.  ;-)  One think I'm definitely looking forward to is the cooler weather in Kolkata.  I'm really tired of being hot.

One of the great things about this part of the country is the proliferation of coconut trees.  Almost every meal here has some kind of coconut product in it.  In our house, there are at least 2 fresh coconuts grated every day.  And there are different types of coconuts as well.  For the yummy, sweet flesh that we're all used to, there are the little brown hairy coconuts like the ones we can get in the grocery stores at home.  For medicinal uses, there are the young, tender coconuts that are green and full of water.  I think the difference is just a matter of maturity of the coconut.  The young tender coconuts are very prized here and it is believed that drinking the water of the coconut will protect you from all kinds of diseases.  It is especially good for your belly.  If you have any stomach complaint at all, you'll be given a young, tender coconut to drink.  You can get one on most street corners.  They have little stands that are just piled up with them, and the shop keeper will chop the top off of one, poke a whole in the remaining skin and stick a straw in it for you.  It's really refreshing when it's hot outside.  I love to drink them.  In fact, they are now selling coconut water as a sports drink in the health food stores in America.  Several of us in the dance company have been buying them for a while because they have a perfect electrolyte balance.   They can cost up to $2 for a small box at home, and here I'm getting the equivalent of 3 boxes for about 25 cents.   I'm going to miss that when we go home.

We're in the process of having lots of beautiful costuming pieces made here.  We've been shopping for fabrics and consulting with our tailor on a regular basis.   He is supposed to have some pantaloons ready for me this evening.  As soon as we get them I'll be posting them on Facebook for purchase.  I'll make a note here as well.  I'm excited about the new designs. :-)

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  Will write again soon.  Keep the comments coming.  It helps us feel connected.